On this day, it had to be about love and doing something on the street. It had to be something real, something for everybody and not just seventy people.
"Models took the runway an hour after the reported time, but it would be inaccurate to say the show started late." - said Katherine Bernard for Dazed & Confused. This statement couldn't have been more justified once Abramović explained to Susie Bubbles, "With guests arriving more an hour before the show began, there was plenty of time to take in the installations high up on plinths – a man climbing slowly up the stairs, which represented “new hope and a new beginning.” Another holding two young trees which Abramović likened to the Twin Towers, sprouting up from the ground once again. “The most beautiful one for me was the woman underneath the water,” said Abramovic. “Water is very important. You have to clean yourself, you have to forgive and put the pain behind you.”"
THE SUN SETS AND THE SHOW BEGINS...
Tisci sent out his women and instantly we see the soft feminine figure walk surely down the runway in an elegant but true-to-form silk nightdress. As the model strided down the strip and onto the first of few wooden crate platforms we come to then see black wide leg trousers taking control of the lower half of her body. This look set the tone for the rest of Tisci's collection. as the show went on, there was a clear mixing of femininity with the traditional tropes of menswear tailoring. As stated, Silk slip dresses accentuated with strips of lace, sequins and knots of fabric gathered at shoulders and tied into a bow or long silk robes worn with wide leg trousers and tuxedo jackets all strictly in ivory or black or Wall Street pinstripe, whilst elaborate evening gowns were transposed with striking structural constructs.
There was a duality within the collection – the monochrome looks combined elements from the most delicate of lingerie with the strongest of suiting and tailored garments. As silk featured the heaviest within the show, tuxedo blazers became silk tuxedo blazers to then extend into silk robes. Fine sheer lace was layered under starched vests, and tailored shirting was rendered in lace.
In what he described backstage later as “a celebration of life, pure love, different religions and all people”, The collection was a culmination of his decade of work at the house, drawing together haute couture and ready-to-wear looks in one vision, for the most part in singular black or white.
Haute Couture...
Interpretations of acclaimed couture pieces came to life on some of Tisci’s most beloved models (instead of the mannequins they’d usually be displayed on)and took to the stage half way through the show. Bouts of lace and silk embellishments upon starched chiffon and feathers upon feathers came to form new skirts, accents and gowns. Each piece ,coinciding with the theme of the collection, was also graced with face masks curated with renowned collaborator and make up artist Pat Mcgrath. Taking the look one at a time, Mcgrath created masks that acted as an extension to the piece. once again lace was used but this time we also saw some use of the golden studs and jewels used within the couture embellishments. the masks soon became the highlight of the amazing collection.
Overall, the collection sat as one of tisci's best collections ever. Its simplistic designs partnered with clever styling on top of the genius set design and shrouded by the day and occasion, Riccardo Tisci and Marina Abramović offered the world and New York a serene moment of reminiscence, love and beauty.
Below is the video of the whole collection and a selection of my favourite looks amongst Givenchy's S/S16 offering:
This version is sped up but you can watch the original in all its glory on Givenchy's site.
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